Today, I did a lot of random experimentation and finally got the dimensions of the Super Charger SC O-rings written down for good. 9/16″ ID and 3/4″ OD. I will need to get several of them again including one to put on the Monster XL.
I also did some spherical PC balloon stacking work today. Layered 10 balloons over the 2700 and hoping it works out without the PRV or pull valve spazzing out. It should give a good-enough power boost given just how thin the stock bladder is, even if it won’t revolutionize anything.
I also worked with one of my homemade experiments, a 2″ piston pump. It used to be like a syringe before I added check valves so that it’s able to intake and release water from two different sources. Unfortunately, the bulky damn thing leaks now and made a mess when I tested it in the bathroom, again.
I did manage to get it to fill up a water balloon and used it to put enough water into a Splashzooka to get a short shot. After that, I put some air into all three Splashzookas to blast out extra water in there. The water that came out was dark, nasty, and even smelled a bit. Lesson of the day: air-cycle ALL of your blasters, no matter the hell what!
Also, my socks are soaked.
So, several updates today, including new pictures.
In the past few weeks, I have…
- Obtained the Tie Not water balloon tying system.
- Obtained a Monster XL.
- Moved to the new workshop and started repairs/mods.
- Full-cycle tested almost all water blasters.
No pictures of the new Monster XL unfortunately, but I’ll probably just get an entire armory picture up once I have everything repaired.
First, the Tie-Not:
Back in the summer of 2007, I couldn’t tie water balloons at all, and needed a paper clip to do it which took minutes per balloon. Later on, I learned to tie pretty well, but I still got this for people who can’t tie, or for its possibly increased speed and reliability of tying. I say possibly because I haven’t used it enough yet to decide, though if it speeds up tying, I may use it during games to fill balloons after filling them up with the blaster.
New Workshop Photos
Most of the working area is shown above. There’s a lot more space than where I used to work; the family room!
VHS’s are out. XP 270 and CPS 2700 under repair. I have to fix the 2700’s trigger and plan to k-mod it lightly.
CPH. Last summer, the inner LRT tube busted open. Instead of just replacing it and moving along, I decided to switch to balloons as an experiment with more power, but the different casing needs may end up becoming a problem.
Intake tube mod for CPS 2700 reservoir. Will eventually try this to other blasters if it works out and allows me to use more water without getting in air. Will explain and document this modification more as time goes on, especially to those who are looking at it and thinking “WTF” right now. (Some explanation is present in a WaterWar.net post here: http://www.waterwar.net/site_wwn/board/topic5188.html#p42395.)
You can slightly see the results of the intake tube mod from the outside here.
The blaster buying guides are being created to assist newcomers to know what to look for and what to avoid. They are short and get straight to the point with few details.
The basic, introductory bullet points are as follows:
- There are two major brands of pressure based blasters: Water Warriors and Super Soaker. You will rarely, if ever, look outside of these two brands.
- Availability varies heavily by store.
- Blaster shopping on eBay is an entirely different matter and is barely covered in this guide. Please contact me or refer to the WaterWar.net forums for additional information.
It’s important to remember that the Super Soaker brand is a far, far cry from what it used to be. It is no longer anywhere near state of the art.
Buying Super Soaker branded blasters:
- Anything labeled under the “Nerf” brand is mostly junk except for the Hydro Cannon. NEVER buy any blaster advertising the “swappable clips” gimmick. Avoid the Arctic Shock.
- You might see blasters labeled “Max-D” or “XP”; these are older, fairly good blaster designs.
- The Max-D 2000/3000 make good sidearms if you are looking for a small, low capacity, medium performance blaster. XP 270 might be around, and if it is, it’s a good option for fast players who need to stay light on their feet. The XP is more rare.
- Max-D 6000: You may also find this blaster around; it’s a very good option as a lightweight blaster.
- Super Soaker Availability: You are unlikely to see anything worth buying other than the Max-D 3000 or Hydro Cannon.
- Hydro Cannon: Its use is limited, but it is still fairly effective. Has huge modding potential for those interested. You can add nozzles, modify/enlarge the pressure chamber, etc.
- There’s a small chance of seeing the Iron Man 2 blaster, which is almost the same (slightly better) as the Arctic Blast.
Buying Water Warriors branded blasters:
- Best of the WW brand: WW Gorgon, WW Colossus: These two offer large capacity (especially the Gorgon, carrying over 3L of water total) and very good small/medium stream performance. The Gorgon is becoming rare, while the Colossus is new and available for 2012. The Sphynx is no longer produced but is a good option if you find it.
- You will see other air pressure based blasters, such as those from the Ultimate line. The Renegade or Explorer are probably the best options from here.
- Sidearms: You may see the Goblin, Hydra, Python, Titan, or Viper.
- Other WW blasters: Most WW products are fairly good quality, though their smaller blasters don’t always perform as well as their Super Soaker counterparts. Check reviews and see what’s what first.
Lastly, you’ll notice piston pumper based blasters; they do not have a trigger and can only be fired via pumping. These have limited use in most games (except single-sided games that involve one team being armed better than the other) and take very high levels of skill to use to be competitive with higher end blasters. They are generally not recommended at all unless you don’t have the money for anything better. (Rare exceptions exist; large syringe type pumpers can shoot fairly far with sufficient user strength and skill, and are also light to carry.)
The eBay/Craigslist/old friends option has not changed much over time. Your best bet is to find blasters from friends, but if you resort to eBay, you may end up paying heavy premiums for used items. That said, these blasters are by far the best of the best, and their performance in water wars will take you much farther than anything previously listed here. eBay bidding tips are out of the scope of this guide.
Keep your eyes and ears out for the following Super Soakers from the past:
- Super Charger SC Power Pak/Big Trouble
- Anything with “CPS” in the name (The CPS 1-3-5 needs to be modded to achieve performance the rest of the series is known for.)
- Anything with “Monster” in the name
Look to none other than iSoaker and the WaterWar.net forums for more information. You may encounter broken items; refer them to someone experienced with them, or learn how to fix them yourself. (HBWW will provide introductions to this in the Workshop section later on.)
Good luck with your searches, and remember that your options are very open. As you can with desktop computers, you can modify or build water guns if you are interested in these options.
If you’ve watched me make updates today to this place, you’ll no doubt have noticed the rapidly changing color schemes, pages, etc. as well as the new logo. This is the first time I created something less complicated than the previous year. The new logo comes in light and dark flavors. It has an obvious emphasis on the two 2000’s; the CPS 2000 as the cannon, and the Max-D 2000 as the sidearm to illustrate HBWW’s inclusiveness of a large variety of blasters from small to large. The background used to be a water texture/pattern that was reduced to two colors and gives a much more vague and mysterious look than it did before. In addition, it is much easier to adapt this to various aspect ratio and resolutions without loosing much or any of the image. Perhaps the greatest motivation for the change of art style, however, is the fact that I didn’t have time to go make more stuff in 3D.
Lastly, the map has been updated:
HBWW has moved to WordPress! It will take some time for everything to get online though, so wait it out a bit and everything will be up eventually.
Update: You are starting to see war reports below. This is because they fit in the blog format better than how I used to store them: As separate pages. I obviously edited the publishing dates to the event dates that the wars took place on.